Day 10, 11 - Bushrangers to Bright

Well today saw us leave a wonderful camp site beside the headerwaters of the mighty Murray River and head toward Bright.  With the river unfortunately to high to cross at Tom Groggin, meaning we could not explore the Davies Plain Track across the Alpine National Park (Victoria) up to Omeo, it meant we had to hit the black stuff to Bright.

A quick explore of the Hydro Scheme at Murray 1 Station and also past a 150 year old railway, see the picture of the bridge below.  This was a quiet drive, to get into the next area to explore.

 Historic Railway Bridge outside Colac Colac, Victoria

Our second day in Bright saw us without the camper trailer on, up exploring Bright to Beechworth.  The following pics tell our story.
 Lady Bath Falls, enroute to Mount Buffalo, near Bright, a Garden of Eden".

We then headed up to Beechworth for a pie from the Beechworth Bakery, and lollies from the best lolly shop in the world, "The Beechworth Weet Company".  I wish I had taken a photo of their shop windows.

It was then back to the Ghosts of Bushrangers Past, with a walk around the area where Harry Power, believed to be a bushranger inspiration of a young Ned Kelly was incarcerated, a man with more tales than Ned's but not as well know as he did not strike the chord that Ned did, as well as looking at where Ned Kelly and his mother were held in custody for his final charges.
 Naughty Daughter
 You may be able to zoom in on this and read the tale of Harry Power.

 The Cells for Harry Power, where at those times prisoners spent their sentence.
 Ned Kelly's Cell, with one of the kids subdued :)
 Ned Kelly's cell, with an excape in motion.
 The Beechwoth Courthouse.

The Beechworth Goal, which is about 120 years old, and was still used until 2007.

 Another escapee
 We found Ned, what a big man :)
On returning to Bright, number one son and I took a 4x4 drive up to a very high point about 20k's out of town up to a fire tower, hoping to grab a specactular sunset over Mt Buffalo.  Alas, not quite to be.

The drive up to the Fire Tower is enjoyable, better in a 4x4.  The drive up to Apex Lookout is only for 4x4.  It was dark and rain was upon us, but not quite we yet, but we used low range 4x4 to crawl up the steep sections.  A great short drive, close to town.

Got back to camp to cook our dinner as everyone else had eaten.  A great afternoon adventure.

Camp:  Big 4 Bright   Cost $138 for two night/family - quite expensive.  Little disappointed, as we saw it was on the Oven River, but the river at this point is a Gorge, so you are high above it, the river is quite narrow.  Across the river, and rather close are high tention power lines, and under them is a road.  While quiet of the night, after Tom Groggin, this was a little noisy, which was made worst by a neighbour camper who for the two mornings, got up at 3am to open and shut his small camper door, he seemed to got a a run then go out again for a bike ride, weird.

Elevation 320m

Weather: Storms threatened, light rain, days were perfect 25 degree, evening pleasant about 18 degrees.

GPS:  36 43'27.82S
           146 57'59.98E

Days 7,8,9 - Tom Groggin Campsite

We broke camp at the Mountain Retreat, muscles still sore from yesterday.  Glad to be leaving this camp and heading up into the Park itself, since the day permit for the car allows for free camping so to speak, in reality that means $16 per night.

Checked out Thredbo Diggings, too busy, no good spots left, but there are two camps side by side (grey nomads had them) that are perfect, overlooking the Thredbo River and the river is good enough to canoe in here, bugger.

Checked out Leatherbarrel camp ground, and some others, none of these allowed for camper trailers, they were tent camp sites, if you had a caravan you could have parked up on the road, not good.

Headed for my preferred camp ground, Tom Groggin.  We were not disappointed.  One other camper in, we headed futher in than the main camping spot which had great fire pits, to a little offroad spot that just allowed for our two camper trailers, right on the edge of the headwaters to the Murray River.  The photo's below tell the story better, this was a great spot, sitting, relaxing overlooking to fast flowing pristine Murray River.

We spent three nights at Tom Groggin camping area, on the south western side of Mt Kosciouszko.  This was a relaxing time.  Here are some photo's with some captions.  Kids swam in the rather cool river, made a rock pool, we put the canoe's in, the river was flowing too fast for the kids.  I had wanted to cross the Murray here, and head into Alpine National Park (that is the adjoining Victorian National Park), but the river was a bit too high and too fast.


 Camping and cooking by the river, this was a fine night.
 Our campsite overlooking the Murray River
 Our travelling companions site beside us.
 A Photogenic River
 With about 30 Roos constantly arond us, they were very friendly, but wild, we could not get much closer, but they were curious of us and came up very often.
 Just down about 25m from camp was this rocky beach area, to enjoy a very crisp river.
 Tayla washing her hair in the River and enjoying the outdoors.
 After I canoed up the river against the current and enjoyed the ride down, our travelling companions went for a paddle.  Fun !
 Not so fun, about 45mins short of cooking time for a lovely roast lamb dinner in the camp oven and a storm came through, had to keep the coals hot, it was worth it, over a nice Red!
A Star shot, of a local Gum Tree beside the river.  Brilliant nights after the rain!  We did have a few showery storms roll through, the nature of the Australian High Country, the land of the Man from Snowy River.

Camp:  Tom Groggin  Cost - Free - part of the day permit for the car.

Weather:  Occassional Storms, temperatures were perfect, daytime about 25 degrees, evenings about 15 degrees.

Elevation:  600m
GPS 36 32'33.48"S
        148 07'42.19E

Day 6 Summit Mt Kosciuszko

Awoke early, the noise of a busy campground and the desire to see if the office was open to get a toilet key.



Our plan for the day, to summit Australia’s highest mountain.  I travelled here as a boy with my neighbour and his son, in their EH Holden wagon, camping along the way.  I recall we drive to within a very easy walk of the summit, but now, with the National Parks Service and the fear surrounding the protection of our environment to the degree to exclude us, so in the end, no-one will ever know what we are protecting, since no-one will be able to see it, it turns out it is now an 18k return trip to the summit of a mountain that I could drive up in my 4x4.



Anyway, off my pulpit, we headed off up through Charlotte Pass to the start.  It took us 7 hours with lots of photo opportunities and rest breaks.  My wife made it to Seamans Hut, about 3k short of the summit and rested there.  The rest of us took our time, played in the large ice patches periodically placed beside the track and successfully summitted.



We returned to camp, very exhausted, enjoyed wonderful long hot showers and a meal.  Sleep came very fast, after telling one of our youthful neighbours to pull their noisy heads in, which they did, thank goodness.  Busy camp grounds, not my style.



Camp:  Kosciouszko Mountain Retreat



Wildlife:  Wedgetail Eagle

 Crossing the headwaters of the Snowy River
 The Summit Team - Top of Australia (Top of our world :)

 Pondering the quiet solitude
Australian Glaciers - Ice met us on the way up.
 A lovely view
 The snow gums
We made it back - where's the Masseuse

Camp: Kosciuszko Mountain Resort, Cost: Expensive - $16/car/day, camping $55/night per family - We obtained a summer offer, 5 day park pass for cost of 4 = $64, then $110 for the two night camping. Will not stay in this camp ground again.

Weather:  Quite cool at the top of Australia, with a wind chill factor, about 5 degrees, the evening was cool again, about 7 degrees.

Elevation:  1215m
GPS:  36 20'50.95"S
          146 34'06.34"E

Day 5 Travel to Kosciuszko

After a huge day,  and a late night, we were a little slow to get going, but we weren’t in a rush.  Packed camp and headed up out of the spectacular valley known as Wombeyan Caves.



We headed south into Goulburn, home of the Goulburn Goal, but more known for the Giant Merino sheep, a large concrete structure of the famous Australian Sheep breed – Merino, a very fine fleece.  Across the road is ‘Trappers Bakery’ so in for a coffee and some food before heading south into our Capitol, Canberra.



Having spent a significant part of my past in Canberra, there was only one venue on our hit list, the Canberra Mint.  Our travelling companions had not been to Canberra so they opted for an hour of Ice-skating (a promise to the kids), The Mint, and the Australian War Memorial and had a wonderful experience of being there for the closing ceremony.



So with our paths splitting and the possibility our companions might camp in Canberra the night, we headed south through Cooma up into Kosciuszko National Park and set camp in Kosciuszko Mountain Retreat.  Our companions met up with us about two hours later.  Yet again, we got in after the office was closed, this was the busiest camp spot to day, so we took a gamble on the sites we licked being free for two nights.  This is a very expensive camping ground and the attraction of washing machines dictated our desire to stay here, but would not camp here again.



The toilets were locked, so since we had not registered yet and no-one answered the door to my knock, we paid $55 per night for a family on a powered site ( I used the battery charger to top up the campers battery) against better judgement, for the privilege of the first night with no shower or toilet (lucky we have our own loo J )



With camp set, that was us for the night, tomorrow – to the top of Australia!



Camp:  Kosciuszko Mountain Resort,  Cost:  Expensive - $16/car/day, camping $55/night per family - We obtained a summer offer, 5 day park pass for cost of 4 = $64, then $110 for the two night camping.  Will not stay in this camp ground again.

Evening: very cool, approx 3 degrees.
Elevation: 1215m
GPS:  36 20'50.95"S
           146 34'06.34"E

Wildlife:  Canberyans (citizens of Canberra)

Day 4 – Wombeyan Caves

We awoke to a tranquil morning, enjoying songbirds and the peaceful forest, grassy expanse and watching young kangaroos play.



After a slow breakfast, we checked in, since we had arrived after closing time yesterday, this was becoming a routine, especially being we have kept our body clocks to good old Queensland time.  We also booked our cave experiences.



The National Parks Service run this area and provide experienced guides, so for the 1pm and 2.30pm guided cave explorations, our party of eight were the only ones in attendance, so it provided a very personal experience.



There is Figtree Cave, which is a self guided tour that takes you through the heart of the shadowing mountain.  So we chose the three cave adventure pack, being Wondondilly Cave, Junction Cave and the bonus of Figtree Cave.  Each on there own is a little pricey, for example the cheaper Figtree Cave is $15pp, but within this package, it works out to be just $7 while the other caves are also discounted.  At a cost of $75 for a family of 4, that package was worth it, but it made for a huge day and it was about to get even bigger.



Time management now became the focal point after such a slow start.  With the guided cave tours being at 1pm and 2.30pm, and lunch to think about, we immediately set off for Figtree cave, which takes about an hour. This was our second time to the caves but for our travelling companions, it was their first.  And seeing Figtree Cave first is best, which is not what we did on our first visit.  It provides an awe and the use of lots of your camera’s memory card before you get into the spectacular caves.



Being self guided and being the only party in the cave, made it very special.  Unlike the ‘touristy’ Jenolan Caves, this was very exciting, like a personal adventure.  This cave has movement sensors that turn on recorded information and choreographed lighting.  It took us just under an hour to meander through this cave.



That got us back to camp just before 12noon, to grab a quick bite, then the 20 minute hike up to the meeting point for Wondondilly Cave.  We met our guide, ‘Mango’ who seemed to be in high spirits.  Mango is an interesting guide and provided, what one could only state as, a very unique and personal insight into the caves.



Wondondilly Cave starts at a locked door.  After the briefing by Mango, you step just inside this door to then face the task of climbing down two long, old, steel ladders, all damp and intriguing.  These are not the last of the ladders to climb.  Mango explained that there are five levels to this cave, but we can’t do the fifth because you need diving gear as it is underwater.



As this was our second time here, and I had photographed it in detail last time, I did not intend taking many photo’s.  However, the wonder of this cave and the lighting, I caved in and took more than I expected.  I have shared some below.



This cave takes you about 80m below your starting point, and you exit slightly below the area where you entered.  It took just over 1 ½ hours to hike through, listen to the geology and history of the cave by Mango and look into cave features to see things like the shape of a full sized elephant, opera house sized auditoriums with pipe organs and even theatre boxes up on the side wall to the stage area.  Your imagination runs wild in here, then you start to wonder how the fresh air makes it in, perhaps you are hypoxic J  But with so many ‘entrances’ into the caves, the air is fresh and sweet.



We exited to adjust our eyes to daylight and our bodies to the warm day, as it is a constant 17 degrees in the cave.



After a short break and time for Mango to organise himself, as well as ensure there are no other participants in the next tour, we headed off on our 1 1/12 kilometre hike to the next cave entrance, Junction Cave.  Again it was just our party of eight.



This cave is different.  While it has some of the usual features, what it is known for though is the flowstone, spectacular formations of white marble flowing down through tubes in the cave.  This cave also has ‘bentwing bats’ and we saw a few flying around as lights were turned on and off.  This cave takes you 100 metres down into the cave, and again over a number of levels, starting yet again with a long ladder climb down.  This exploration took just over an hour.  One of the things you note is that while there is a specific path tailored, there are many offshoots that have been explored and thought about, but to keep the guided tour manageable, they have been excluded, so there is more to explore here than just what you are shown. 



On exiting, Mango advised us if a free cave that we can explore that takes us through another hill to a lookout into a huge marble canyon.  So, with daylight still to burn, we set off down on a very little used track, across a ravine and up to the side of the adjacent hill where we found the cave entrance. 



This is Mares Cave and there is a timed push-in button light switch, to get you through the cave to the lookout.  But seeing the beautiful crystal clear waters flowing through the bottom of this marble walled canyon had us quickly returning to the cave entrance and hiking down the narrow path to the floor of this canyon.



It didn’t take the kids long to be in the icy water, swimming and paddling, and for me soaking my tired feet.  Then the images started to appear that needed capturing on film, so I went about doing my best to capture the magic of this spot.



We spent about an hour here, before taking the track back up the hill and returning to camp to sit by the fire to recapture the tales of the day and for some reason, deciding to cook a camp oven roast.  We didn’t eat until 9pm Qld time, being 10pm NSW DST.   An awesome day was followed by sound sleep, for tomorrow it was up into the Alpine regions of Mount Kosciouszko.





Camp:  Wobeyan Caves



Wildlife:  Bent Winged Bats.

 Down in the Wondondilly Cave with our travelling companions
 A Shawl - the lighting makes it magic
 Making our way down, down, down, ladders and steps.......
Out at the Marble Gorge

Camp: Wombeyan Caves Cost: $140 included 2 nights camping, Family Pass to explore 2 guided caves and the 1 self guided Fig Tree Cave was $85 if I recall correct, making each night about $27.50 for a family to camp.

Elevation: 600m

GPS  34 18' 10.68"S
         149 58' 19.74"E

Wildlife: Eastern Grey Kangaroos, Wallaby’s, Magies, Currawongs.

Day 3 – Bathurst and Wobeyan Caves

Awoke to a pleasant outlook over Lake Windemere.  Packed camp and headed for Bathurst.  Now while Bathurst Goal is linked with Bushrangers and the Bathurst Courthouse was meant to be shipped from England to Bathurst, South Africa and ended up in Bathurst, New South Wales, Australia instead, no, I have to say this detour was purely for the purpose of the infamous Australian Car Racing Circuit, “Mount Panarama”, for the racing event known as Bathurst 1000 – an October Event where V8 Supercars take all day and a number of driver and brake changes and fuel stops to race over 1000 kilometres on this steep hillside.



And yes, us mere public mortals are permitted to drive this track throughout the year, why?  Because it is all a public road, many residences and businesses are access off this 6 kilometre road that is always maintained in race track condition with crash barriers and advertising and the pits etc etc.



So it was, the car all fuelled up, oil checked, windscreen cleaned and we were off, in our Pajero 4x4, towing our camper trailer up around the race circuit that has a public speed limit of 60k/h and we struggled to attain that up the steep hill, alas, we took a pitstop at the top, in the park and enjoyed lunch. 



We dropped the trailer, donned the L (Learner) plates for my son and us boys then went for a couple of hot laps, a boys dream (including big boys J ) even if it was capped at 60k’s and we were in a 4x4.  Need to bring my MGB down here.

On the road again we headed for our camp at Wombeyan Caves.  This is a wonderful camping spot, shaded by trees so old they stopped counting in years, hot showers, sweet water drawn from the depths of this unique marble cave area.  There are 120 caves in this area alone with 520 entrances.  While the more famous Jenolan Caves to the north are created from limestone, Wombeyan Caves are created out of marble.  Being not very well known and with a requirement to be more athletic and agile than their cousins up the road, these caves offer a far more adventurous and boutique experience for the explorer.



While the camp ground caters for school groups and the large influx of campers for the holiday periods, we were one of three camps, and were more than 100m apart, so we settled in for a quiet night by the camp fire, awaiting tomorrows adventure.



Camp: Wombeyan Caves  Cost:  $140 included 2 nights camping, Family Pass to explore 2 guided caves and the 1 self guided Fig Tree Cave.

Evening was very pleasant about 15 degrees.

GPS  34 18' 10.68"S
          149 58' 19.74"E

Wildlife:  Eastern Grey Kangaroos, Wallaby’s, Magies, Currawongs.


Day 2 Thunderbolts Grave and beyond

Awoke early but then realised NSW has daylight savings, felt an hour older instantly.

Enjoyed the quiet and isolation of this great bush camp, packed and headed south. Discovered Captain Thunderbolts grave at Uralla and many other 150 year old graves. Amazing how many kids in one family across many families perished young.

Captain Thunderbolt committed over 80 armed roberies, stole more than $20,000 pounds of which most was useless to him as they were cheques and was shot dead on Wednesday, 25th May 1870.

Headed South into the country music capital of Australia - Tamworth. Too busy, too much time around crowds, so hit the road south by sourhwest across a remote dirt road short cut into the top of the Upper Hunter - wine country and the childhood town of Henry Lawson. The approach we took came in from the north east in through 'Pipeclay' an area now known as Eurunderee, where the public school was Henry's first schooling just near his home.

Slipped through Mudgee and this wine district too late to try any celkar doors, including one of my favourites 'Poets Corner'. Maintained a southerly beari g and grabbed a camp at Cudgegong Waters Caravan Park, on the shores of Lake Windemere. Set camp, enjoyed sunset at the lake, tranquil.

Wildlife: Echidna

Weathet: quite a fresh start, approx 6 degrees warm and sunny day.

Camp: 600m Alt. S32 48' 44. E149 49' 24




Campsite:  Lake Windamere - Cudgegong Waters Park  Cost: $12 for the family (Ray the park manager overlooked the kids for our first visit :)

Very pleasant evening about 18 degrees.

GPS 32 47'16.38S
       149 49' 25.07E