Day 19 - the final leg home in the rearview mirror

Well, waking a little early, to enjoy a campfire breakfast, after a slow pack up and a shower, we departed Boolabinda Holiday Farm, Glen Innes, for home.

We dropped up to the Standing Stones, in Glen Innes, to reminisce.

We had to stop back into 'Cherrydale' the Cherry and stone fruit farm near 'The Bluff' just south of Tenterfield, for more cherry's as they were the best we had purchased in our travels, and that includes the fruit bowl area around Cobham, Victoria.  Alas, all the cherry's had been sold, so we grabbed a mixed box of stone fruit for our lovely neighbours who had looked after our pets and kept on eye on our house.

The run home was quiet, allowing for a time to reflect on our adventures of this exploration of the Ghosts of Bushrangers Past.

Of the 18 nights away, 7 were in essence, free camping, though this includes three nights at Tom Groggin in Kosciuszko National Park, where the camping was free, but vehcile access to the park was $16 per car per day. Free camping avails the true spirit of adventure, and touches on that sense of self survival, though with the comforts of a camper trailer, you still enjoy some comforts of home, especially with a port-a-loo :)

We spent approximately $540 on camping fees, including one night in a caravan park cabin.  The expensive campsites were Kosciuszko Mountain Retreat, Bright Big 4 and Echuca Holiday Park.  Cudgegong Waters Park at Lake Windamere was the cheapest paid site, and certainly value for money.

The best campsite, for me, was firstly, Tom Groggin, Kosciuszko National Park on the banks of the headwaters of the Murray River, followed closely by Stewarts Beach No1, also on the banks of the Murray River.  All the rest except Kosciuszko Mountain Retreat in Kosciuszko National Park, were great spots.  I won't stay at the Kosciuszko Mountain Retreat again, it's not value for money.

Each days leg was quite short and very enjoyable.  We were able to fit a great deal into each day, including sleep-ins, which are very important when you have a days drive, ending in the need to seek out unknown good campsites and set camp.  Setting a realistic pace, recognising the work needed at the end of each day to set camp, allowed for an enjoyable camper trailer holiday.  Having a system to set camp and packup also aided the task.  Being a family of four, teamwork also aided in the ease in which we set camp.  You would never get a caravan park cabin nor a motel room with the tranquility that our camps gave us, nor the intimate views and closeness to experience nature and the Australian Bush.  I haven't had a kangaroo, crimson rosella's nor a donkey join me for dinner in a motel room !

Camp:  Home

Day 17,18 - Looking for Saphires - Glen Innes

Waking to the pleasant sounds of yet more Cockatoo's, which had woken us most mornings along our route, had us enjoying the other quiet sounds of the bush.  Being camped in the Barracks Campground, Coolah Tops National Park, was very relaxing.

Again, a slow breakfast and slow pack, saw us back on the road and eager to explore roads much less travelled.  On leaving the park, there was a park ranger repairing a cattle grid, and having noted the maps of this area, we sounded out the possibility of heading due north of the park on the back roads, to which the ranger confirmed.

So, after exiting the park and following the access road back toward Coolah, at the first intersection, we turned right (left took you back toward Coolah).  This was bitumen for a bit then became unsealed. 

The road makes it's way up the valley, has a couple of creek crossings (see pics below), until you make your way up to "Pandora's Pass" at the top of this range.  This is a very beautiful drive.  We did not see any other travellers and enjoyed to peaceful drive.


One of the creek crossings, very beautiful.

As we then decended down Pandora's Pass we were overlooking huge farms, it looked a little like the Darling Downs, however, the Darling Downs looked like it would fit on just one of these farms.

We made our way through back roads, working more on a bearing than anything, until we came to a point that we could recognise on our maps.  From here, it looked like there was a back road to Tamworth, so we took that one.

This got us into Tamwoth for a late lunch, then on the New England Highway for the run up the 'Great Dividing Range' over the peak of 1400m at Ben Lomond, down to Glen Innes at 1200m.

Camping in Glen Innes was at the request of our daughter.  We used to live here when we ran a motel in town.  However for this trip, it was fossicking and horse riding that had the focus of my daughter.  She decided to camp at Boolabinda farm stay.  Boolabinda is located on Bullock Mountain Road, off the Emmaville road.  This property is located between Three Waters farm stay and Bullock Mountain farm stay (which includes Pub Crawls on Horse Back).

During our time here, we also checked out the other two neighbouring properties, and discovered that though Three Waters had won a 2011 Tourism Award their facilities were very similar to Boolabinda, though we noted they had share showers, not private ones like Boolabinda.  Of note: they sold bags of fossicking gravel at $25 when the exact same bag at the Tourist Information Centre is $10. 

We chose Bullock Mountain for our horse riding and this was excellent.  While being slightly more expensive than Three Waters (Boolabinda does not do horse riding any more, cost of insurance being a negative) $40 for the first hour, while Three Waters was $35 for the first hour, we noted that Three Waters was mainly in the sun, riding along the banks of the Reddestone Creek, while Bullock Mountain explored the bush before finally joining back onto the Reddestone Creek, which you had to cross, very exciting.

All three properties access Reddestone Creek, which was the scene for a large commercial saphire mine in days past, remnants still very visable.

We enjoyed what I would say (and the owner of Bullock Mountain also stated) the best camp site along the creek, of all the camp sites offered by all three farm stays.  Our location was shaded, overlooking the swimming hole, where we put the canoes in, and the swimming hole also had good fishing for Redfin.  Three Waters, we saw, only had grassy, very sunny camp spots, as did Bullock Mountain, however, Bullock Mountain also offers camping over on Beardy's Waters, a Trout fishing spot and from my local knowledge, would make a great camp site, but you would have to be self sufficient and need a 4x4 to access this site.

Our camp at Boolabinda was a short drive to the showers, which are old and rustic, but fairly clean.  Tank drinking water is also avialble from the house.

We had no luck with saphires nor fishing, but then we weren't truly serious either, perhaps next time.

Of course we took a drive into Glen Innes, and explored the changes to the town, since it was 10 years since we lived here.

Enjoy some pics of our time in Glen Innes.  We spent two nights here, before heading home on the final leg of this adventure.

 Our campsite:  You can see our camp on the other side of the waterhole.  There was only one other camper on the property, some 500m back toward the main house.  This was a very tranquil spot.
 Fishing in the quiet.
 Enjoying a paddle
We had a visitor one night.  "Donkey - where's Shrek?"

Camp:  Boolabinda Holiday Farm  $40/night being $10/pp/night = $80
GPS:  29 36'03.15"S   151 43'35.30E

Weather:  Beautiful, perfect, awesome about 25C days and 12C nights.

Day 16 Coolah Tops - off the beaten track.

We awoke to pleasant weather, no rain in sight.

A simple pack, since we spent the night in a carvan park cabin, saw us on the road earlier than usual for us.

We headed for a return trip to Bathurst and Mudgee.  Some food shopping at Bathurst.

On the road between Bathurst and Mudgee is a historic hamlet - Sofala.  This is a gold mine town that is still occupied and gold diggings are still active.  This small historic hamlet is worth the stop, it holds the magic of a bygone era, a time of bushrangers, hard work and a simpler life.  We had a wander around the streets soaking up the relaxed atmostphere, blokes at the table in front of the pub, the post office come shop come former telephone exchange had a set of 'stocks' out the front for public use and other historic tools and equipment. 
Mudgee saw us dropping into a winery, though I was looking for the winery that hosts "Poet's Corner" wines, to no avail., after that we were in search of a nights camping, and noted Coolah Tops National Park about an hour away.

The township of Coolah is apparently known for being the place with the "Black Stump", while I thought that place was in Blackall, Queensland.  "Beyond the Blackstump" is an Australian saying, pertaining to being an imaginery point beyond which no normal person would usually travel.  However, Coolah had a severe bush fire and the only thing standing at the the end of it was a single 'black stump' so they took it as an icon.

Grabbing ice (Mudgee had no ice!) we headed up to the Coolah Tops National Park.  Being in the back blocks of no-where, beyond the 'black stump' so to speak, we thought we'd be the only ones here, but alas, no, while it was not too busy, there were other campers there, bugger.

Grabbed a nice site and enjoyed happy hour before starting dinner.  My son and I took a walk into the scrub to see the giant grass tree.  As luck would have it, nesting in the side of a gum tree right beside our camp, were crimson rosella's, check out the photo below.  This is a lovely camp ground, one bush toilet, and a shelter shed, but otherwise, it's just quiet bush, thank goodness all the other campers also were enjoying the quiet.

 Crimson Rosella's kept an eye on us.
 The Giant Grass Tree
Again, very inquisitive Kangaroo's, makes for an enjoyable bush experience.

Camp:  The Barracks campground - Coolah Tops National Park

GPS:  No GPS taken.

Weather:  Cool and pleasant.

Day 15 Prisoners of War and rest.

After a sleep in, we awoke to a very pleasant day on the banks of the Murumbidgee River.  A slow breaky, and pack up saw us heading north again.

There were severe thunderstorm warnings, strong winds and hail for Dubbo (to our north) and Wagga Wagga to our east, as well as smaller storms to our west and south. All seemed to be taking an easterly bearing.  Our travelling companions were heading for Dubbo today, to visit the Zoo.

We chose to use the IPhone to access the Bureau of Meterology's weather radars again.  Using the weather radars offered an interesting way to navigate, it saw us on some back by-ways, including the by-way named after the lady on the back of our $10 note which has Banjo Patterson - author of the "Man from Snowy River" on the front. Taking the "Mary Gilmore Way" (Mary Gilmore was a radical socialist writer of the late 1800's before becoming a well noted Poet) to take a lengthy break at a small one horse town of Barmedman where we enjoyed a bowl of hot chips and bugers at the only petrol station/ road house in town for lunch.

We joined the Widwestern Highway at Grenfell and needing to now come in the back of yet another storm, charted a course for Cowra, the rural town that was the scene of a major Prisoner of War (POW) Camp breakout in the 1940's. With the ongoing storms, very wet ground and a long day's drive, we decided to use a cabin in a caravan park. Before choosing a camp, we visited the Japense Gardens and the historic site of the POW Camp. Several hundred were killed as a result of this breakout, including one Australian citizen, a farmer, by a group of Japanese excapee's.  All were eventually caught.

We then chose to stop at the Cowra Holiday Park, about 4k's to the east of Cowra. I highly recommend this park, the recently new owners are lovely, the rates are very reasonable, the camp ground is clean and tidy. This gave us a chance to do some laundry before we hit further bush camps and then Glen Innes, our next multi-night stop. See: http://www.cowraholidaypark.com.au/

No photo's today.

Camp:  Cowra Holiday Park  $80 for a family cabin (sleeps 8) for the night.
GPS:  33 49' 09.05S
          148 44'05.90E

Weather:  Stormy and Rainy, though temperatures were pleasant.

Day 14 A lesser known crime - Ned Kelly at Jerilderie

Chistmas Day - We awoke to the wonders of Christmas Day and that Santa has visited in the night, as well as some rolling through thunderstorms, with more on the western horizon, looming our way.

A very slow start to the day, pleasant breaky, opening of presents, and we enjoyed 'Secret Santa' with our travelling companions.

A slow packup was turned to a rush as a thunderstorm hit.  Since we were packed a bit quicker than our travelling companions, we decided to head off first in search of tonights camp, as we had no plans, only that we were now heading toward home.

We headed due north on the Cobb Highway.  Along this route there are information points about the 'geological fault' the the highway follows.  There is a 15-20 meter drop on the eastern side of the highway and this is highlighted at certain points, where the tops of the trees, about 100 - 150 meters off the eastern side of the highway, are at ground level to the highway.  An awesome display of mother nature.

Turning east at Deniliquin onto the Riverina Highway found us taking a late lunch on the shores of an irrigation lake in the town of Finley.  Just as we were packing up, our travelling companions had chosen the same spot for lunch, so it allowed us a chance to touch base before we continued on, north along the Newel Highway.

About 30 minutes later saw us in Jerilderie.  Jerilderie is the scene of a bank robbery conducted by Ned Kelly and his gang more than a year before his famous shootout and capture in Glen Rowan.

February 1879 saw Ned and his gang rob the Jerilderie bank, and threaten the people of the small hamlet to chop down the telegraph lines so the crime could not be immediately reported.  The small building that was the bank is still preserved as well other buildings, revealing the architecture of the times.

 The original Jerilderie bank.
 The story.
 The Willow's, there is a story of the Willows down further.
 The original blacksmith shop, used in the robery.



More of the story.

The story of the Willow's, a lovely building.  It was the Visitor Information Centre until recently, when the local council decided to move it to the council offices, dumb decision.

We had noticed rain building on all four points of the compass, and the first touched us as we left Jerilderie.  So, using the Bureau of Meteorology radar via our IPhone, we charted our course and speed, to position ourselves between these storms. 

From Narrandera, we decided to explore options for a camp.  Due South of a one pub town called Grong Grong, is the Berembed Weir, located on the Murrumbidgee River, a major tributary of the Murray, that was our pick.  We let our travelling companions know of our destination, and noting that the unsealed road was in excellent condition, though from the gate into the weir, is was somewhat lesser in standard.  There is about 20k's of dirt road to the Weir.

We set camp.  Our travelling companions did not get as far as us, they chose a spot not so far in, beside the road, as the road follows an irrigation channel that is sourced from the Weir.

Camp: 
 Our camp on the banks of the Murrumbidgee River.

An interesting Gum Tree beside our camp, natures art work.

Camp:  Berembed Weir, via Grong Grong, NSW   Free Camping  $0
GPS:  34 52'51.19S
           146 50'03.90E

Elevation:  162m
Weather:  Rain periods.  Evening was  fine and pleasant weather, about 15 C at night.


Day 13 - Echuca Decisions

We awoke to a beautiful morning on the Murray River, under the River Red Gums, a couple of k's outside Cobham.  This was the day of Christmas Eve.  A slow breakfast saw us discussing our options.  We had separated from our travelling companions.  They messaged us to advise they were in Echuca.

The original plan was to spend three nights camping beside the Murray, being over the Christmas period. The plan was to bug out the day after Boxing Day. We were already a day ahead, since we chose not to drop down to Mansfield and camp beside the mountain hut used in the movie, 'The Man From Snowy River', Craigs Hut, hence it would have even availed us to a four day camp, a break from driving. However, decisions needed to be made.

Our desire was to share Christmas with our travelling companions. We had 'Secret Santa' to play, and food to eat :) There was also another riverside camping spot in the area of 'The Gulf' just north of Echuca, again on the banks of the Murray. Echuca was just over an hour away. So our decision was to pack camp, checkout Echuca, show the kids the Capital of River Paddle Steam Boats, then choose a camp after that, and hopefully to have caught up with our travelling companions.

So it was, decision made, we packed camp and headed west along the Murray River. We found some farms selling stone fruit, so stocked up.  We hit Echuca and phoned our travelling companions.  We'd catch up after some grocery shopping meeting at the Port of Echuca.

Meeting on the banks of the Murray where the Paddle Steamers dock had us deciding to check out some riverside camping spots our travelling companions had received excellent info from the Tourist Information Centre in Echuca.  So they took the lead.  It was very dissappointing to discover these camp sites were littered with rubbish and again, V8 speed boats thumping up and down the river.  This part of the river also has house boats. 

We checked out some of the prices, for a 'Luxury Afloat' which sleeps 8 and has a spar on the top deck of a three deck houseboat, was $5,100 for three nights over Xmas. The basic house boats were $1,600 for three nights. Camping on the banks was more in our price bracket.

So we returned to Echuca.  Again, decision time.  The camp site we had camped the night before was perfect, but it was not agreed for all of us to camp there, so after some in-decision, we decided to spend $$ on the local caravan park. 

The Echuca Holiday Park was expensive.  It is frustrating when these venues over-inflate their prices just because it is Christmas, they were not busy (yet) and they suffered no extra costs because of Christmas, in fact they didn't even open their office doors on Christmas day, they simply left the entry gate open.  Anyway, the pool was nice and refreshing and cooled us off, as we needed it, kids enjoyed the swim.  It was 37 degrees and there was little shade in the park.  But we were together and the kids were sharing christmas.

Our travelling companions put in an awesome effort to decorate their camp, and it turned out the park had Santa cruise around handing out lollies, and then a judging of the best decorated camp site, and they won!  Nice bottle of bubbly, good one.

Further decisions were made, that we'd only spend one night here and head off the next morning, though I felt that would mean we'd end up heading different directions.  This was the first time our travelling companions had been out of Queensland as a family and it was certainly a big adventure.  Perhaps it was better if they now had the opportunity to do their own exploring.

Here's some pics of Echuca.  A great place to visit (in winter :)

 Our camp, Xmas morning
 The winning camp - (the next morning, so not as polished at the big effort for the night before).  Very Christmassy!

Note:  The Xmas Tree, on the marker pole of the tent site boundary, fashioned out of garbage bags, Modern Art at it's finest.
 Port of Echuca - the many houseboats for rental.  A 'Luxuary Afloat' for 3 days over Xmas was $5,100 - ridiculous
 Paddlesteamer - The Canberra
 Paddleboat - floating restaurant
The Thong Tree :)

Camp:  Echuca Holiday Park  - $66/night/family - expensive.

Weather:  Days - Hot about 37 degrees, evenings pleasant 18 degrees

Elevation: 150m

GPS  36 06'55.90S
         144 44'36.70E

Day 12 - Bright to Cobham

Well day 12 saw us pack and head out of Bright, not before the girls did a little more shopping.

The day started with one of our travelling companions deciding to push bike ride the 75k's from Bright to Wangaratta.  The day was hotter than expected and she was exhausted at the end of this early morning start, while the "Rail Trail" here is all sealed, with 100k's of off road rail trail track, which includes the branch off up to Beechworth.  This is very popular with push bike riders.

Having picked up our rider, we continued onto Glenrowan.

The drive to Echuca saw us hit further bushranger territory, Glenrowan, the scene of the famous Ned Kelly shootout with the police and his eventual capture.  We stopped and had an enjoyable lunch at Cathy's Cafe in Glenrowan, wonderful food, including gluten free, very enjoyable.

Glenrowan has preserved the Kelly history very well, there is a theatre re-enactment (we didn't do) and the town has a free walk around history walk.  Here are some pics of Glenrowan, the Kelly's last stand where Ned tried to de-rail a 'police train' with the purpose of injuring or killing the Police.  While the gang looked imposing in their suits of armour they had especially prepared for this crime, thankfully for his lack of forethought, he didn't fulfill his plan and though the outcome was tragic for the gang, being either burnt to death in the Pub fire or shot, Ned hung for his crimes.  "Such is Life" became his immortal words.

 Glenrowan Railway Station
 The site where the gang was burnt to death is kept vacant.
The Glenrowan Police Station was erected adjacent to the site where Ned Kelly was shot and arrested.  The Police Station was in service for 110 years.  ( You can see a re-enactment of Ned against the log in the background.

That afternoon saw us into Cobham, a town on the Murray River about an hour shy of Echuca.  Some wrong GPS coord printed in one of the books on Murray River, saw us exploring some unplanned areas near Cobham.  Finally we hit the river camp spots we were looking for, to be totally disappointed with the number of 'bogan' campers, all geared up with speed boats and slabs of beer, a recipe of a bad camping experience.

So we continued exploring the banks of the Murray, looking for that perfect camp spot.  This saw us exploring many kilometers of the banks of the Murray.  Speaking to a local, I think he was a bee keeper, as he was near quite a large bee hive site in the bush, he pointed us to some spots, but this also saw us hit a point in our travels.

While most of the Murray River had silty banks and the camping area under the trees can be quite dusty, (the roads certainly were), we found ourselves at a small creek crossing, about 200mm deep, 2 meters wide on a track that takes you out to Stewarts Beachs 1 & 2.  Our travelling companions decided they were not impressed with the Murray River camping choices and left us to cross the stream, and they went in search of other camping spots.  Meanwhile, I found the perfect spot, just what I was looking for, for my Murray River Camping experience.  Here are some photo's of us enjoying our camp.

 In 37 Degree C afternoon, relaxing by the waters of the Murray was very cool.

 You can see our camp in among the trees, overlooking the Murray at Stewarts Beach 1, under the shade of the Murray River Red Gums.
 Sunset on the Murray, the river framed by the famous red gums.
 The Murray River Red Gum boasts an impressive size and structure.
 Star Trails on the Murray River
 Our Camp - Stewarts Beach No 1
 Canoing on the Murray
 Enjoying the cool waters.
 Paddling the Murray

Campsite: Stewarts Beach No1  - Free
GPS:  35 51'43.97"S
           145 37'28.56"E
Which in the 'Camping and Carvaning Guide to the Murray River by Lewis and Savage, they use a different GPS system they use GDA 94, which is not used by Tomtom.
They give 35 51.766S, 145 37.436E

Elevation 150m

Weather:  Hot, very hot, 37 degrees on the day, nights pleasant about 18 degrees.

Wildlife:  Cockatoo's, lots and lots, various water birds.