Well, waking a little early, to enjoy a campfire breakfast, after a slow pack up and a shower, we departed Boolabinda Holiday Farm, Glen Innes, for home.
We dropped up to the Standing Stones, in Glen Innes, to reminisce.
We had to stop back into 'Cherrydale' the Cherry and stone fruit farm near 'The Bluff' just south of Tenterfield, for more cherry's as they were the best we had purchased in our travels, and that includes the fruit bowl area around Cobham, Victoria. Alas, all the cherry's had been sold, so we grabbed a mixed box of stone fruit for our lovely neighbours who had looked after our pets and kept on eye on our house.
The run home was quiet, allowing for a time to reflect on our adventures of this exploration of the Ghosts of Bushrangers Past.
Of the 18 nights away, 7 were in essence, free camping, though this includes three nights at Tom Groggin in Kosciuszko National Park, where the camping was free, but vehcile access to the park was $16 per car per day. Free camping avails the true spirit of adventure, and touches on that sense of self survival, though with the comforts of a camper trailer, you still enjoy some comforts of home, especially with a port-a-loo :)
We spent approximately $540 on camping fees, including one night in a caravan park cabin. The expensive campsites were Kosciuszko Mountain Retreat, Bright Big 4 and Echuca Holiday Park. Cudgegong Waters Park at Lake Windamere was the cheapest paid site, and certainly value for money.
The best campsite, for me, was firstly, Tom Groggin, Kosciuszko National Park on the banks of the headwaters of the Murray River, followed closely by Stewarts Beach No1, also on the banks of the Murray River. All the rest except Kosciuszko Mountain Retreat in Kosciuszko National Park, were great spots. I won't stay at the Kosciuszko Mountain Retreat again, it's not value for money.
Each days leg was quite short and very enjoyable. We were able to fit a great deal into each day, including sleep-ins, which are very important when you have a days drive, ending in the need to seek out unknown good campsites and set camp. Setting a realistic pace, recognising the work needed at the end of each day to set camp, allowed for an enjoyable camper trailer holiday. Having a system to set camp and packup also aided the task. Being a family of four, teamwork also aided in the ease in which we set camp. You would never get a caravan park cabin nor a motel room with the tranquility that our camps gave us, nor the intimate views and closeness to experience nature and the Australian Bush. I haven't had a kangaroo, crimson rosella's nor a donkey join me for dinner in a motel room !
Camp: Home
Day 17,18 - Looking for Saphires - Glen Innes
Waking to the pleasant sounds of yet more Cockatoo's, which had woken us most mornings along our route, had us enjoying the other quiet sounds of the bush. Being camped in the Barracks Campground, Coolah Tops National Park, was very relaxing.
Again, a slow breakfast and slow pack, saw us back on the road and eager to explore roads much less travelled. On leaving the park, there was a park ranger repairing a cattle grid, and having noted the maps of this area, we sounded out the possibility of heading due north of the park on the back roads, to which the ranger confirmed.
So, after exiting the park and following the access road back toward Coolah, at the first intersection, we turned right (left took you back toward Coolah). This was bitumen for a bit then became unsealed.
The road makes it's way up the valley, has a couple of creek crossings (see pics below), until you make your way up to "Pandora's Pass" at the top of this range. This is a very beautiful drive. We did not see any other travellers and enjoyed to peaceful drive.
One of the creek crossings, very beautiful.
As we then decended down Pandora's Pass we were overlooking huge farms, it looked a little like the Darling Downs, however, the Darling Downs looked like it would fit on just one of these farms.
We made our way through back roads, working more on a bearing than anything, until we came to a point that we could recognise on our maps. From here, it looked like there was a back road to Tamworth, so we took that one.
This got us into Tamwoth for a late lunch, then on the New England Highway for the run up the 'Great Dividing Range' over the peak of 1400m at Ben Lomond, down to Glen Innes at 1200m.
Camping in Glen Innes was at the request of our daughter. We used to live here when we ran a motel in town. However for this trip, it was fossicking and horse riding that had the focus of my daughter. She decided to camp at Boolabinda farm stay. Boolabinda is located on Bullock Mountain Road, off the Emmaville road. This property is located between Three Waters farm stay and Bullock Mountain farm stay (which includes Pub Crawls on Horse Back).
During our time here, we also checked out the other two neighbouring properties, and discovered that though Three Waters had won a 2011 Tourism Award their facilities were very similar to Boolabinda, though we noted they had share showers, not private ones like Boolabinda. Of note: they sold bags of fossicking gravel at $25 when the exact same bag at the Tourist Information Centre is $10.
We chose Bullock Mountain for our horse riding and this was excellent. While being slightly more expensive than Three Waters (Boolabinda does not do horse riding any more, cost of insurance being a negative) $40 for the first hour, while Three Waters was $35 for the first hour, we noted that Three Waters was mainly in the sun, riding along the banks of the Reddestone Creek, while Bullock Mountain explored the bush before finally joining back onto the Reddestone Creek, which you had to cross, very exciting.
All three properties access Reddestone Creek, which was the scene for a large commercial saphire mine in days past, remnants still very visable.
We enjoyed what I would say (and the owner of Bullock Mountain also stated) the best camp site along the creek, of all the camp sites offered by all three farm stays. Our location was shaded, overlooking the swimming hole, where we put the canoes in, and the swimming hole also had good fishing for Redfin. Three Waters, we saw, only had grassy, very sunny camp spots, as did Bullock Mountain, however, Bullock Mountain also offers camping over on Beardy's Waters, a Trout fishing spot and from my local knowledge, would make a great camp site, but you would have to be self sufficient and need a 4x4 to access this site.
Our camp at Boolabinda was a short drive to the showers, which are old and rustic, but fairly clean. Tank drinking water is also avialble from the house.
We had no luck with saphires nor fishing, but then we weren't truly serious either, perhaps next time.
Of course we took a drive into Glen Innes, and explored the changes to the town, since it was 10 years since we lived here.
Enjoy some pics of our time in Glen Innes. We spent two nights here, before heading home on the final leg of this adventure.
Our campsite: You can see our camp on the other side of the waterhole. There was only one other camper on the property, some 500m back toward the main house. This was a very tranquil spot.
Fishing in the quiet.
Enjoying a paddle
We had a visitor one night. "Donkey - where's Shrek?"
Camp: Boolabinda Holiday Farm $40/night being $10/pp/night = $80
GPS: 29 36'03.15"S 151 43'35.30E
Weather: Beautiful, perfect, awesome about 25C days and 12C nights.
Again, a slow breakfast and slow pack, saw us back on the road and eager to explore roads much less travelled. On leaving the park, there was a park ranger repairing a cattle grid, and having noted the maps of this area, we sounded out the possibility of heading due north of the park on the back roads, to which the ranger confirmed.
So, after exiting the park and following the access road back toward Coolah, at the first intersection, we turned right (left took you back toward Coolah). This was bitumen for a bit then became unsealed.
The road makes it's way up the valley, has a couple of creek crossings (see pics below), until you make your way up to "Pandora's Pass" at the top of this range. This is a very beautiful drive. We did not see any other travellers and enjoyed to peaceful drive.
One of the creek crossings, very beautiful.
As we then decended down Pandora's Pass we were overlooking huge farms, it looked a little like the Darling Downs, however, the Darling Downs looked like it would fit on just one of these farms.
We made our way through back roads, working more on a bearing than anything, until we came to a point that we could recognise on our maps. From here, it looked like there was a back road to Tamworth, so we took that one.
This got us into Tamwoth for a late lunch, then on the New England Highway for the run up the 'Great Dividing Range' over the peak of 1400m at Ben Lomond, down to Glen Innes at 1200m.
Camping in Glen Innes was at the request of our daughter. We used to live here when we ran a motel in town. However for this trip, it was fossicking and horse riding that had the focus of my daughter. She decided to camp at Boolabinda farm stay. Boolabinda is located on Bullock Mountain Road, off the Emmaville road. This property is located between Three Waters farm stay and Bullock Mountain farm stay (which includes Pub Crawls on Horse Back).
During our time here, we also checked out the other two neighbouring properties, and discovered that though Three Waters had won a 2011 Tourism Award their facilities were very similar to Boolabinda, though we noted they had share showers, not private ones like Boolabinda. Of note: they sold bags of fossicking gravel at $25 when the exact same bag at the Tourist Information Centre is $10.
We chose Bullock Mountain for our horse riding and this was excellent. While being slightly more expensive than Three Waters (Boolabinda does not do horse riding any more, cost of insurance being a negative) $40 for the first hour, while Three Waters was $35 for the first hour, we noted that Three Waters was mainly in the sun, riding along the banks of the Reddestone Creek, while Bullock Mountain explored the bush before finally joining back onto the Reddestone Creek, which you had to cross, very exciting.
All three properties access Reddestone Creek, which was the scene for a large commercial saphire mine in days past, remnants still very visable.
We enjoyed what I would say (and the owner of Bullock Mountain also stated) the best camp site along the creek, of all the camp sites offered by all three farm stays. Our location was shaded, overlooking the swimming hole, where we put the canoes in, and the swimming hole also had good fishing for Redfin. Three Waters, we saw, only had grassy, very sunny camp spots, as did Bullock Mountain, however, Bullock Mountain also offers camping over on Beardy's Waters, a Trout fishing spot and from my local knowledge, would make a great camp site, but you would have to be self sufficient and need a 4x4 to access this site.
Our camp at Boolabinda was a short drive to the showers, which are old and rustic, but fairly clean. Tank drinking water is also avialble from the house.
We had no luck with saphires nor fishing, but then we weren't truly serious either, perhaps next time.
Of course we took a drive into Glen Innes, and explored the changes to the town, since it was 10 years since we lived here.
Enjoy some pics of our time in Glen Innes. We spent two nights here, before heading home on the final leg of this adventure.
Camp: Boolabinda Holiday Farm $40/night being $10/pp/night = $80
GPS: 29 36'03.15"S 151 43'35.30E
Weather: Beautiful, perfect, awesome about 25C days and 12C nights.
Day 16 Coolah Tops - off the beaten track.
We awoke to pleasant weather, no rain in sight.
A simple pack, since we spent the night in a carvan park cabin, saw us on the road earlier than usual for us.
We headed for a return trip to Bathurst and Mudgee. Some food shopping at Bathurst.
On the road between Bathurst and Mudgee is a historic hamlet - Sofala. This is a gold mine town that is still occupied and gold diggings are still active. This small historic hamlet is worth the stop, it holds the magic of a bygone era, a time of bushrangers, hard work and a simpler life. We had a wander around the streets soaking up the relaxed atmostphere, blokes at the table in front of the pub, the post office come shop come former telephone exchange had a set of 'stocks' out the front for public use and other historic tools and equipment.
Mudgee saw us dropping into a winery, though I was looking for the winery that hosts "Poet's Corner" wines, to no avail., after that we were in search of a nights camping, and noted Coolah Tops National Park about an hour away.
The township of Coolah is apparently known for being the place with the "Black Stump", while I thought that place was in Blackall, Queensland. "Beyond the Blackstump" is an Australian saying, pertaining to being an imaginery point beyond which no normal person would usually travel. However, Coolah had a severe bush fire and the only thing standing at the the end of it was a single 'black stump' so they took it as an icon.
Grabbing ice (Mudgee had no ice!) we headed up to the Coolah Tops National Park. Being in the back blocks of no-where, beyond the 'black stump' so to speak, we thought we'd be the only ones here, but alas, no, while it was not too busy, there were other campers there, bugger.
Grabbed a nice site and enjoyed happy hour before starting dinner. My son and I took a walk into the scrub to see the giant grass tree. As luck would have it, nesting in the side of a gum tree right beside our camp, were crimson rosella's, check out the photo below. This is a lovely camp ground, one bush toilet, and a shelter shed, but otherwise, it's just quiet bush, thank goodness all the other campers also were enjoying the quiet.
Crimson Rosella's kept an eye on us.
The Giant Grass Tree
Again, very inquisitive Kangaroo's, makes for an enjoyable bush experience.
Camp: The Barracks campground - Coolah Tops National Park
GPS: No GPS taken.
Weather: Cool and pleasant.
A simple pack, since we spent the night in a carvan park cabin, saw us on the road earlier than usual for us.
We headed for a return trip to Bathurst and Mudgee. Some food shopping at Bathurst.
On the road between Bathurst and Mudgee is a historic hamlet - Sofala. This is a gold mine town that is still occupied and gold diggings are still active. This small historic hamlet is worth the stop, it holds the magic of a bygone era, a time of bushrangers, hard work and a simpler life. We had a wander around the streets soaking up the relaxed atmostphere, blokes at the table in front of the pub, the post office come shop come former telephone exchange had a set of 'stocks' out the front for public use and other historic tools and equipment.
Mudgee saw us dropping into a winery, though I was looking for the winery that hosts "Poet's Corner" wines, to no avail., after that we were in search of a nights camping, and noted Coolah Tops National Park about an hour away.
The township of Coolah is apparently known for being the place with the "Black Stump", while I thought that place was in Blackall, Queensland. "Beyond the Blackstump" is an Australian saying, pertaining to being an imaginery point beyond which no normal person would usually travel. However, Coolah had a severe bush fire and the only thing standing at the the end of it was a single 'black stump' so they took it as an icon.
Grabbing ice (Mudgee had no ice!) we headed up to the Coolah Tops National Park. Being in the back blocks of no-where, beyond the 'black stump' so to speak, we thought we'd be the only ones here, but alas, no, while it was not too busy, there were other campers there, bugger.
Grabbed a nice site and enjoyed happy hour before starting dinner. My son and I took a walk into the scrub to see the giant grass tree. As luck would have it, nesting in the side of a gum tree right beside our camp, were crimson rosella's, check out the photo below. This is a lovely camp ground, one bush toilet, and a shelter shed, but otherwise, it's just quiet bush, thank goodness all the other campers also were enjoying the quiet.
Camp: The Barracks campground - Coolah Tops National Park
GPS: No GPS taken.
Weather: Cool and pleasant.
Day 15 Prisoners of War and rest.
After a sleep in, we awoke to a very pleasant day on the banks of the Murumbidgee River. A slow breaky, and pack up saw us heading north again.
There were severe thunderstorm warnings, strong winds and hail for Dubbo (to our north) and Wagga Wagga to our east, as well as smaller storms to our west and south. All seemed to be taking an easterly bearing. Our travelling companions were heading for Dubbo today, to visit the Zoo.
We chose to use the IPhone to access the Bureau of Meterology's weather radars again. Using the weather radars offered an interesting way to navigate, it saw us on some back by-ways, including the by-way named after the lady on the back of our $10 note which has Banjo Patterson - author of the "Man from Snowy River" on the front. Taking the "Mary Gilmore Way" (Mary Gilmore was a radical socialist writer of the late 1800's before becoming a well noted Poet) to take a lengthy break at a small one horse town of Barmedman where we enjoyed a bowl of hot chips and bugers at the only petrol station/ road house in town for lunch.
There were severe thunderstorm warnings, strong winds and hail for Dubbo (to our north) and Wagga Wagga to our east, as well as smaller storms to our west and south. All seemed to be taking an easterly bearing. Our travelling companions were heading for Dubbo today, to visit the Zoo.
We chose to use the IPhone to access the Bureau of Meterology's weather radars again. Using the weather radars offered an interesting way to navigate, it saw us on some back by-ways, including the by-way named after the lady on the back of our $10 note which has Banjo Patterson - author of the "Man from Snowy River" on the front. Taking the "Mary Gilmore Way" (Mary Gilmore was a radical socialist writer of the late 1800's before becoming a well noted Poet) to take a lengthy break at a small one horse town of Barmedman where we enjoyed a bowl of hot chips and bugers at the only petrol station/ road house in town for lunch.
We joined the Widwestern Highway at Grenfell and needing to now come in the back of yet another storm, charted a course for Cowra, the rural town that was the scene of a major Prisoner of War (POW) Camp breakout in the 1940's. With the ongoing storms, very wet ground and a long day's drive, we decided to use a cabin in a caravan park. Before choosing a camp, we visited the Japense Gardens and the historic site of the POW Camp. Several hundred were killed as a result of this breakout, including one Australian citizen, a farmer, by a group of Japanese excapee's. All were eventually caught.
We then chose to stop at the Cowra Holiday Park, about 4k's to the east of Cowra. I highly recommend this park, the recently new owners are lovely, the rates are very reasonable, the camp ground is clean and tidy. This gave us a chance to do some laundry before we hit further bush camps and then Glen Innes, our next multi-night stop. See: http://www.cowraholidaypark.com.au/
No photo's today.
Camp: Cowra Holiday Park $80 for a family cabin (sleeps 8) for the night.
GPS: 33 49' 09.05S
148 44'05.90E
Weather: Stormy and Rainy, though temperatures were pleasant.
Day 14 A lesser known crime - Ned Kelly at Jerilderie
Chistmas Day - We awoke to the wonders of Christmas Day and that Santa has visited in the night, as well as some rolling through thunderstorms, with more on the western horizon, looming our way.
A very slow start to the day, pleasant breaky, opening of presents, and we enjoyed 'Secret Santa' with our travelling companions.
A slow packup was turned to a rush as a thunderstorm hit. Since we were packed a bit quicker than our travelling companions, we decided to head off first in search of tonights camp, as we had no plans, only that we were now heading toward home.
We headed due north on the Cobb Highway. Along this route there are information points about the 'geological fault' the the highway follows. There is a 15-20 meter drop on the eastern side of the highway and this is highlighted at certain points, where the tops of the trees, about 100 - 150 meters off the eastern side of the highway, are at ground level to the highway. An awesome display of mother nature.
Turning east at Deniliquin onto the Riverina Highway found us taking a late lunch on the shores of an irrigation lake in the town of Finley. Just as we were packing up, our travelling companions had chosen the same spot for lunch, so it allowed us a chance to touch base before we continued on, north along the Newel Highway.
About 30 minutes later saw us in Jerilderie. Jerilderie is the scene of a bank robbery conducted by Ned Kelly and his gang more than a year before his famous shootout and capture in Glen Rowan.
February 1879 saw Ned and his gang rob the Jerilderie bank, and threaten the people of the small hamlet to chop down the telegraph lines so the crime could not be immediately reported. The small building that was the bank is still preserved as well other buildings, revealing the architecture of the times.
The original Jerilderie bank.
The story.
The Willow's, there is a story of the Willows down further.
The original blacksmith shop, used in the robery.
More of the story.
Our camp on the banks of the Murrumbidgee River.
A very slow start to the day, pleasant breaky, opening of presents, and we enjoyed 'Secret Santa' with our travelling companions.
A slow packup was turned to a rush as a thunderstorm hit. Since we were packed a bit quicker than our travelling companions, we decided to head off first in search of tonights camp, as we had no plans, only that we were now heading toward home.
We headed due north on the Cobb Highway. Along this route there are information points about the 'geological fault' the the highway follows. There is a 15-20 meter drop on the eastern side of the highway and this is highlighted at certain points, where the tops of the trees, about 100 - 150 meters off the eastern side of the highway, are at ground level to the highway. An awesome display of mother nature.
Turning east at Deniliquin onto the Riverina Highway found us taking a late lunch on the shores of an irrigation lake in the town of Finley. Just as we were packing up, our travelling companions had chosen the same spot for lunch, so it allowed us a chance to touch base before we continued on, north along the Newel Highway.
About 30 minutes later saw us in Jerilderie. Jerilderie is the scene of a bank robbery conducted by Ned Kelly and his gang more than a year before his famous shootout and capture in Glen Rowan.
February 1879 saw Ned and his gang rob the Jerilderie bank, and threaten the people of the small hamlet to chop down the telegraph lines so the crime could not be immediately reported. The small building that was the bank is still preserved as well other buildings, revealing the architecture of the times.
More of the story.
The story of the Willow's, a lovely building. It was the Visitor Information Centre until recently, when the local council decided to move it to the council offices, dumb decision.
We had noticed rain building on all four points of the compass, and the first touched us as we left Jerilderie. So, using the Bureau of Meteorology radar via our IPhone, we charted our course and speed, to position ourselves between these storms.
From Narrandera, we decided to explore options for a camp. Due South of a one pub town called Grong Grong, is the Berembed Weir, located on the Murrumbidgee River, a major tributary of the Murray, that was our pick. We let our travelling companions know of our destination, and noting that the unsealed road was in excellent condition, though from the gate into the weir, is was somewhat lesser in standard. There is about 20k's of dirt road to the Weir.
We set camp. Our travelling companions did not get as far as us, they chose a spot not so far in, beside the road, as the road follows an irrigation channel that is sourced from the Weir.
Camp:
An interesting Gum Tree beside our camp, natures art work.
Camp: Berembed Weir, via Grong Grong, NSW Free Camping $0
GPS: 34 52'51.19S
146 50'03.90E
Elevation: 162m
Weather: Rain periods. Evening was fine and pleasant weather, about 15 C at night.
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